What to do in Kathmandu City

Kathmandu is a city that hits all the senses at once – incense smoke curling from ancient temples, the clatter of prayer wheels, saffron-robed monks weaving through streets lined with spice stalls, and the distant chime of bells from stupas that have watched over the valley for centuries. Start with the iconic Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest in the world, where pilgrims circle the whitewashed dome in meditative loops, or climb the steep steps to Swayambhunath (affectionately known as the Monkey Temple) for sweeping views and some cheeky resident macaques. At Pashupatinath, Nepal's holiest Hindu site, you can witness evening Aarti ceremonies along the Bagmati River – a powerful, moving experience that stays with you. Durbar Square offers a crash course in Newari architecture, all intricately carved wooden windows and pagoda-roofed shrines, while the surrounding lanes reward aimless wandering with pottery workshops, hole-in-the-wall momos and markets piled high with turmeric and cardamom. And if the Himalayas are calling but time isn't on your side, a scenic Everest flight puts you eye-to-eye with the world's highest peaks before breakfast. Chaotic, spiritual and utterly addictive – Kathmandu is one of those cities you never quite shake.