Where to go in Kathmandu Valley

Kathmandu is buzzing, busy, brilliant and completely unfiltered. From ornate palace courtyards and incense-filled alleyways filled with the glow of butter lamps, to vibrant bazaars, processions, honking scooters and (very) determined holy cows, there really is a little bit of everything. Once a key point on the trans-Himalayan trade routes, it’s also where Nepal’s story has long been gathered, traded and argued over – and the city still feels very much like a modern meeting place today. The big-hitters – Durbar Square, Monkey Temple, the Boudhanath Stupa and the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath – are well-worth a visit, but linger for a while and browse the shops in Thamel, and then refuel at one of the pretty cafes in the Garden of Dreams to really get a feel for this iconic slice of Nepal.

Patan (or Lalitpur, meaning ‘beautiful city’ in Sanskrit) is a little like Kathmandu’s stylish cousin. Famed for its exquisite and well-preserved architecture, the creative heritage is evident everywhere you turn, from the intricate metalwork and carvings to the out and out beauty of the squares and buildings. A highlight for many is the Patan Museum, set within a restored palace and known for its beautiful collection of South Asian art and artefacts as well as several stolen pieces, returned to Nepal by foreign museums. This is a town that is perfect for travellers who like culture without chaos: take it slowly, go detail-hunting, then settle in for a long lunch while the city carries on around you.

Step back in time into the streets of Bhaktapur, a meticulously preserved Newar city a short drive east of Kathmandu. The historic centre is absolutely made for wandering with its narrow lanes, carved façades and traffic-free squares. UNESCO hotspot Durbar Square is the obvious starting point (and definitely worth the hype), with the Palace of 55 Windows as a headline act, but don’t stop there: wander to Taumadhi Square to see the stunning five-tier Nyatapola Temple and nearby Bhairavnath Temple, then carry on to Dattatreya Square for more temples, wood carvings and pleasant courtyard life. The city is also a wonderful place to browse local markets, and shopping opportunities for terracotta pottery and woodwork abound. It’s brilliant as a day trip – but even better with an overnight so you can see it early.