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Sister regions either side of the Tanaro River, the Langhe and Monferrato roll across southern Piedmont in waves of vineyards, hazelnut groves and stone hilltop villages. And the greatest claim to fame? They are both considered some of Italy's finest grape-growing regions. Langhe is home to Barolo and Barbaresco (and the Nebbiolo grape produces reds with serious backbone). Nearby Alba is the home of the white truffle, dug up by trifolau and their dogs in autumn forests, whilst Hilltop villages like La Morra, Monforte d'Alba and Neive are all about cellar visits accompanied by plates of tajarin pinched into being by hand. Cross over into Monferrato and the pace slows right down: fewer tourists, sleepy villages built from honey-coloured pietra da cantoni, and the curious infernot, tiny cellars hand-dug by farmers and now UNESCO-protected in their own right. Idyllic or what?
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The food. Bra in the Langhe is the home of the Slow Food movement, and the whole region eats accordingly, from handmade tajarin with butter and shaved truffle to agnolotti del plin pinched by nonne who have been doing it for half a century.
Wander into Monferrato Casalese and discover the infernot, tiny, low-ceilinged wine cellars hand-dug into sandstone. They are scattered through places like Cella Monte and Rosignano Monferrato and visits are mostly by appointment with the families who still own them.
Autumn truffle weekends in Alba are busy and pricey. Travelling midweek, or going east into Monferrato where the coaches rarely venture, will reward you with a more authentic version of the region.
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