What to do in Rome

Begin where Rome itself began, at the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, with an archaeologist who will conjure the gladiators and emperors back into the rubble. In the afternoon, swap the ancient for the Baroque on a stroll through Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, this time with an art historian to reveal the magic. Come evening, it’s all about the cucina: stroll through Testaccio's market for supplì and trapizzino, roll proper cacio e pepe in a Roman pasta class, or settle into a Trastevere aperitivo as the lamps come on. There's also Rome by Vespa after dark, or, for a quieter morning, cycle the ancient Appian Way and whizz past the umbrella pines and ruined aqueducts. For something special, we'd arrange an after-hours visit to the Galleria Borghese, or spend the day at Tivoli's Villa d'Este. With its cascading gardens and theatrical fountains, it fills an afternoon nicely (if you can spare one!)