Hilltop villages like San Gimignano, Pienza and Montepulciano feel entirely yours to explore. Medieval stone, cold air and no tour groups - a rare combination.

Wild boar (cinghiale) is now fully in season. Trattorie across the hills serve pappardelle al cinghiale, slow-cooked stews and rustic salami at their most authentic.

Olive trees across the region get their winter pruning. Small piles of cuttings burn in the fields, sending aromatic smoke drifting through the valleys.

The days begin to lengthen. Afternoon walks through bare vineyards become pleasant, even if the mornings still call for gloves and a scarf.

Almond and mimosa trees begin flowering, with pink and yellow splashes arriving against an otherwise wintery palette - the first hint of spring!

Bottarga production from the coastal lagoons reaches its peak. Shaved over pasta with a glass of Vermentino, it's the Tuscan coast's most distinctive seafood product.

The first wildflowers break across the Val d'Orcia and Crete Senesi. The hills green up quickly, shaking off winter's browns in a matter of weeks.

Lambing season brings fresh spring pecorino to farm dairies. This is the famous pecorino di Pienza at its most delicate and milky.

Longer daylight and mild temperatures mark the start of the cycling season. Rolling through the hills is a great way to get around.

The countryside turns into a patchwork of colour. Green fields, yellow rapeseed, flowering fruit trees and the first poppies make this one of the region’s loveliest months.

The vines are in full leaf. Rows turn a fresh, almost electric green against dark cypresses and terracotta farmhouses - the classic Tuscan postcard at last.

Wisteria drapes over palazzo walls and hidden Oltrarno courtyards in Florence. The city briefly turns purple along Arno's quieter streets.

From late May, warm evenings bring fireflies drifting through the vineyards and olive groves. Best watched from a farmhouse terrace with a glass of Sangiovese.

Strawberries arrive at markets in full abundance. Wild fragoline - tiny intense wild strawberries - appear on dessert menus at family-run trattorie.

Cantine Aperte (the last Sunday of May) sees hundreds of Tuscan wineries throw their doors open. Tastings, cellar tours and informal kitchen meals all on the house.

Cherries and apricots hit their prime. Market stalls overflow and dessert menus lean heavily on whatever came in from the orchard that morning.

Wheat fields turn golden before the harvest. They sit beautifully alongside the deep greens of the vineyards - a classic Tuscan contrast.

Calcio Storico - Florence's brutal 16th-century football match in costume - reaches its tournament finals through June. Rugby meets wrestling meets historic pageantry, in the sand-covered Piazza Santa Croce.

The days begin to grow hot. Life shifts to the Tuscan rhythm - early mornings, long lunches, afternoon rests and late alfresco dinners under the stars.

Siena's July Palio (mirrored in August) is a brief, intense bareback horse race in the Piazza del Campo. A real spectacle, although tickets and logistics need advance planning.

Elba's beach season hits full stride. Ferries run packed from Piombino, and the island's coves fill with Italian holidaymakers.

Italians flock to the coast for Ferragosto. The vineyards are still busy, but the crowds aren’t quite as big.

The vines sag with ripening fruit. The countryside takes on its high-summer character - baked, golden and shimmering in the heat.

Cala Violina (Violin Cove) lives up to its name - the white sand that squeaks underfoot is almost as weird as the snorkelling beach is beautiful.

The vendemmia (grape harvest) gets under way from mid-September. Many wineries welcome guests to join pickers for a morning in the vines, with a cellar lunch to follow.

With autumn well on its way, the days start to soften, evenings begin to cool, and the first autumn hues begin to show.

Figs reach their lush, sticky best. Paired with prosciutto, in salads with pecorino, or simply eaten off the tree on a morning farm walk.

Water temperatures are still ideal for snorkelling around Giannutri. Visibility is often better than the summer peak, with the marine reserve at its clearest.

Olive harvest begins late in the month. The first pressings of olio novo - grassy, peppery, vivid green - start showing up at markets and in dishes across the region.

Florence's Carro Matto sees a 1,000-flask wine cart parade through the centro storico. It’s a medieval new-wine festival drawing costumed crews to Piazza della Signoria, and a celebration of Tuscany’s world-renowned produce.

San Miniato's white truffle fair runs across three weekends. Truffle hunters, chefs and serious eaters descend on this small town west of Florence - advance booking is essential.

Foggy mornings across the Val d'Orcia produce the most atmospheric landscapes of the year. Early starts with a thermos of espresso are well rewarded.

Agriturismo shifts into cosy winter mode. Wood-burning kitchens, early sunsets and long dinners indoors make for a change of rhythm.

Christmas markets flicker through Siena, Greve and smaller hill towns. Mulled wine to drive away the cold, local crafts, and a cosy, festive atmosphere.

Truffle season continues across the Crete Senesi. White truffle gradually gives way to black winter truffle on menus - although both are equally welcome.

New Year's Eve in a hilltop village like Montepulciano or Pienza is quiet and atmospheric. Fireworks, local wine and not much else - in the best possible way.