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Morocco country guide

Morocco Country Guide

Sand seas, stunning coasts & head-turning medinas
Jenna Coiley With expert insights from Jenna Coiley, Travel Specialist
by Holly Allison15 min read

Sitting at the crest of North Africa, Morocco is a country that defies definition. From miles of desert, watched over by enormous peaks and sublime coastlines, to the exotic medinas that have scarcely changed for centuries, there really is nowhere like it. Immortalised in film, novels and art, it’s a must visit country for many – and if you’re thinking about it, take a look at our Morocco country guide and start dreaming up a trip of your own.

Morocco at a glance

  • Main gateways: Marrakesh Menara Airport, served direct by many European airlines, and Mohammed V International (CMN) in Casablanca, with direct flights from the UK and USA.
  • The cultural heart: Marrakesh, which has held that title for over 1,000 years.
  • For mountains: the Atlas Mountains, 2-3 hours from Marrakesh and home to Toubkal, the tallest peak in North Africa.
  • For desert without the distance: the Agafay Desert, just 40 minutes from Marrakesh.
  • For the Sahara proper: Erg Chebbi, where the dunes reach up to 350 metres.
  • For ancient medinas: Fes el Bali, one of the oldest in the Arab world, with 9,000 alleyways.
  • Worth knowing: Chefchaouen can only be reached by road, and there are no flights directly into the desert.

Where to go in Morocco

Region Best for Getting there
Central Morocco Marrakesh’s souks and Djeema el-Fna, Atlas kasbahs and hiking, Agafay’s stargazing Direct flights to Marrakesh Menara; the Atlas is 2-3 hours by private driver, Agafay just 40 minutes
Atlantic Coast Casablanca’s Art Deco and Hassan II Mosque, Essaouira’s surf, music and seafood Direct flights to Mohammed V (CMN); Essaouira is 2.5 hours from Marrakesh or 4.5 hours from Casablanca
Moroccan Desert Erg Chebbi’s dunes, Zagora’s kasbahs and markets, Skoura’s oases and valleys No flights into the desert: drive from Marrakesh (6-9 hours) or Fez (around 7 hours), or fly Fez to Errachidia (1 hour)
Northern Morocco Fez’s medina and artisans, Tangier’s Mediterranean blend, Chefchaouen’s blue lanes Fes-Saiss (FEZ) and Tangier-Ibn Battuta (TNG) airports; Chefchaouen by road only, 3.5 hours from Tangier
Morocco country guide

Explore the snowy peaks of the Atlas Mountains

Central Morocco

The city that time forgot, Marrakesh has been Morocco’s cultural heart for over 1,000 years. Pack some comfortable shoes because most of your exploring will be on foot – and there’s a whole lot to see! We’re talking about the Koutoubia Mosque and its impressive 12th-century minaret; the gilded Saadian Tombs and palaces; the stunning Bab Agnaou gate; and the myriad souks, guaranteed to satisfy just about souvenir wish! When you’re all walked out, see a different side to Marrakesh at the lush Jardin Marjorelle and Yves Saint Laurent Museum, or take a sidecar ride into the palmeraie just beyond the city limits. After sunset, the Djeema el-Fna square is the place to be, its whirlwind of steaming food stalls, street performers and snake charmers intoxicating and magical.

Next up, the lofty Atlas Mountains, where a collection of beautiful kasbahs stand, ready to welcome. In between treatments at a traditional hammam, hike in the mountains (trails range from an hour to the entire day), or explore by mule, horseback, mountain bike or even with a drive along the hair-raising Tizi ‘n Tamatert pass. There are plenty of neighbouring national parks to explore too, from the ever-changing colours of Salt to Toubkal and its enthralling peak – the tallest in North Africa – while the Ourika Valley promises river rafting and cascading waterfalls. Enjoy a cooking lesson or a mint tea ceremony for the chance to meet members of the local Berber community, and for the ultimate view, a hot air balloon flight can’t be beaten.

Despite being just an hour outside of Marrakesh, the Agafay Desert is a rugged, mineral landscape that feels miles away from civilisation. There are plenty of options for exploring, from hiking to an uber-adventurous quad or mountain biking adventure, a scenic picnic and dip in the Lalla Takerkoust oasis, a hot air balloon flight, or even a sunset camel ride with the snowy Atlas Mountains in the background. Afterwards, spend hours gazing at the stars and learning about their legends.

“Marrakesh has been Morocco’s cultural heart for over a thousand years, and most of your exploring will be done on foot — so pack comfortable shoes. Save Djeema el-Fna for after sunset, when the food stalls, street performers and snake charmers take over.”
— Jenna Coiley, Africa travel specialist

How do I do it?

The Marrakesh Menara Airport is one of Morocco’s main hubs and many European airlines offer direct flights. Royal Air Maroc also offers direct flights from countries that don’t fly into Marrakesh; these land in Casablanca with connections to Marrakesh. Book a private driver for journeys to the High Atlas Mountains (2 – 3 hours from Marrakesh), and day trips or overnight stays in the Agafay Desert (just 40 minutes from Marrakesh).

Where do I start?

The sights of Central Morocco are classics and feature on most itineraries, but our mountains to beach trip combines them all – with enough time to savour their individual charms – before a few laid-back days on the Atlantic Coast.

Morocco country guide

Spot the bright blue fishing boats in Essaouira’s harbour

Atlantic Coast

Casablanca has earned a legendary status over the years (thank you Mr Bogart), and is Morocco’s lasting connection with Europe after its years as a prominent sea port. On land, Art Deco features conjure up a distinctly Parisian style, which sits shoulder to shoulder with the Moorish arches and whitewashed facades. Dig into the city’s history at the seaside Hassan II Mosque (one of the largest in the world), Palais de Justice and the Cinema Rialto, which hosted powerhouses like Josephine Baker and Edith Piaf. The famous Villa des Arts provides a window into Casablanca’s creative side while the Marche Centrale is a hub of stalls stacked with souvenirs. Then, when you’re in need of a rest, stop at one of the fantastic seafood restaurants or grab a drink at the reimagined Rick’s Cafe.

Splashed with bright blue doors, balconies and tiny fishing boats, Essaouira is full of character, which famously attracted visitors like Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens. It’s still a creative bedrock today and there’s always music and art to enjoy, while the souks are a treasure trove of textiles and pottery. It’s also Morocco’s top beach destination and there’s a laundry list of activities to enjoy, including kite, wind and regular surfing, paddleboarding, and horse rides along the sand – and that’s before we’ve mentioned the lip-smacking ‘chwaya’ barbecued seafood. Take a tour of the history books up in the ramparts, where 18th-century canons remain intact, and then for something a little different, head into the countryside for a hike or picnic amongst the dunes.

“Essaouira has always drawn creative people — Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens among them — and it’s still a creative bedrock today. It’s also Morocco’s top beach destination, so there’s kitesurfing, paddleboarding and horse rides along the sand alongside the music and the souks.”
— Jenna Coiley, Africa travel specialist

How do I do it?

Many international destinations including the UK and USA offer direct flights to the Mohammed V International Airport (CMN) in Casablanca. Essaouira can easily be reached on a scenic route from Marrakesh (2.5 hours) or Casablanca (4.5 hours), depending on your itinerary.

Where do I start?

Go for the works with this trip that combines escapist days in the desert, high-altitude hikes and Morocco’s sensational medinas with a few days at the beautiful Atlantic Coast.

Morocco country guide

Trek along the crest of a giant dune in the Moroccan Desert

Moroccan Desert

Morocco’s portion of the Sahara Desert is vast and magical. Here, rolling sand seas are dotted with giant, apricot dunes, and green palm groves break the expanse. The most surreal of the sand seas, Erg Chebbi boasts dunes of up to 350 metres in height. Explore them on scenic drives, camelback or on foot with Berber guides, or go sandboarding down some of the tallest, before stopping for lunch in a cool oasis. If you’re a history buff, take some time to visit the fossils of Erfoud.

Named after the flat-topped mountains in the distance, Zagora is markedly different from Erg Chebbi; it’s actually a city in the Draa Valley, and a once-popular stopping point for traders of old and their camel caravans. Peruse the museums, kasbahs and markets, their stalls piled high with olives, dates and fine carpets, or pay a visit to the Quranic Library, which houses works penned as far back as the 13th century. Then, take a leisurely stroll through the palmeraie, cycle along the riverbank, and enjoy an unusual pamper at a sand-hammam.

Skoura and its surrounds offer a combination of sandy excursions and natural, often-green scenery. Take a walk or cycle through the Oasis of 1,000 Palms where birdlife is plentiful, and trek through the remote and very fragrant Valley of the Roses. Enjoy a scenic drive to the Berber city of Ouarzazate to pick up handcrafted wares at the souks and try to guess how many films have been made in this very spot. As for a more intrepid adventure, hike or ride camelback on the spine of an ever-moving dune…

“Erg Chebbi is the most surreal of the sand seas, with dunes reaching up to 350 metres. Explore them on camelback or on foot with Berber guides, go sandboarding down the tallest, and stop for lunch in a cool oasis.”
— Jenna Coiley, Africa travel specialist

How do I do it?

There are no flights directly into the desert, but there are a number of driving routes including Fez (around 7 hours) and Marrakesh ( 6 to 9 hours – or longer – depending on how many stops you make). There are also weekly flights from Fez to Errachidia (one hour), from which the gateway town of Merzouga is then just two hours away. Your journey from there depends on the camp you’ll be staying at.

Where do I start?

Our Morocco in a nutshell trip will take you across the desert, from Zagora to Erg Chebbi, and offers a taste of the rest of the country too. There’s hiking in the Atlas Mountains, explorations in the lively souks of Marrakesh and Fez, and strolls along the charming, sky-blue streets in Chefchaouen.

Morocco country guide

Learn an ancient art at Chouara Tannery, Fez

Northern Morocco

Time-travel back a few centuries in time with a visit to Fez. The Fes el Bali medina is one of the oldest in the Arab world, and 9,000 alleyways reveal artisans using ancient techniques in carving, copper bashing, weaving and leather dying to produce their wares. Book a guide and watch the city’s history unfold as you navigate the winding streets, ancient palaces, and gardens; they say little has changed since the medina was built. Afterwards, venture into the countryside for a hike in the Zalagh foothills, wine tastings in Meknes, or take a wander around the 1st-century Roman ruins of Volubilis.

The last stop in Africa before crossing the sea to Spain, Tangier blends old and new in its colourful, foliage-covered lanes that branch out from the Grand Socco (square). If you’re a sucker for history, join a guide on a walkabout between the medina, mosques and Kasbach Museum, or delve into the artistic side at a myriad of galleries. Make the most of the Mediterranean location with a day on the beach or take a trip to the Caves of Hercules – the views are spectacular.

A much smaller, laid-back alternative to Morocco’s bustling medinas, Chefchaouen is known for its sky-blue buildings and cobbled lanes. After getting lost down the side streets and taking in some of the fantastic foodie scene, find yourself at the central Plaza Uta el Hammam where Berber artisans sell handmade items and, after sunset, music fills the air. The natural surroundings of the town are also beautiful; hike into the foothills of the Rif Mountains, stand amazed at God’s Bridge, and stop for a dip below the Cascades d’Akchour.

“Fez is time travel. The Fes el Bali medina is one of the oldest in the Arab world, and its 9,000 alleyways still hide artisans carving, copper bashing, weaving and leather dying by ancient techniques. Book a guide and let the city’s history unfold around you.”
— Jenna Coiley, Africa travel specialist

How do I do it?

There are regular international flights into the Fes-Saiss Airport (FEZ). However, if your itinerary calls for it, there are hour-long flights from Casablanca or Marrakesh. You can fly into the International Airport of Tangier-Ibn Battuta (TNG), then travel with a private driver or taxi to your hotel. Chefchaouen can only be reached by road; there are CTM bus routes from Tangier (3.5 hours) and Fez (4.5 hours), or a private transfer can be arranged.

Where do I start?

Our highlights of Morocco trip will take you from Marrakesh and into the mountains before the alluring medina of Fez awaits – and it’s easy as pie to add Tangier or Chefchaouen to your journey.

Morocco FAQs

Which airport should I fly into for Morocco?

Marrakesh Menara Airport is one of the main hubs, with direct flights from many European airlines. Mohammed V International (CMN) in Casablanca receives direct flights from the UK, USA and elsewhere. For the north, there are regular international flights into Fes-Saiss (FEZ) and Tangier-Ibn Battuta (TNG).

How far are the Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh?

The High Atlas Mountains are 2-3 hours from Marrakesh with a private driver. Toubkal’s peak is the tallest in North Africa, and trails in the area range from an hour to a full day.

How do you get to the Agafay Desert?

It’s just 40 minutes from Marrakesh by private driver, which makes it workable as a day trip or an overnight stay. Despite being only an hour outside the city, it’s a rugged, mineral landscape that feels miles from civilisation.

How do you get to the Sahara Desert in Morocco?

There are no flights directly into the desert. Driving routes run from Fez (around 7 hours) and Marrakesh (6 to 9 hours, or longer depending on stops). Alternatively there are weekly flights from Fez to Errachidia (one hour), with the gateway town of Merzouga two hours on from there.

How high are the dunes at Erg Chebbi?

Up to 350 metres. It’s the most surreal of Morocco’s sand seas, and you can explore it on scenic drives, camelback or on foot with Berber guides — or sandboard down some of the tallest dunes.

How do you get to Chefchaouen?

By road only. CTM bus routes run from Tangier (3.5 hours) and Fez (4.5 hours), or a private transfer can be arranged.

How far is Essaouira from Marrakesh?

2.5 hours on a scenic route. From Casablanca it’s 4.5 hours. Essaouira is Morocco’s top beach destination, with kitesurfing, windsurfing, paddleboarding and horse rides along the sand.

What is there to do in Fez besides the medina?

Head into the countryside for a hike in the Zalagh foothills, wine tastings in Meknes, or a wander around the 1st-century Roman ruins of Volubilis.

As seen in

Condé Nast TravelerThe Daily TelegraphTravel and Leisure