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Carola finds bliss in Bhutan and Nepal

Carola finds bliss in Bhutan and Nepal

The people are the greatest treasure of all
Carola Fresno With expert insights from Carola Fresno, Travel Specialist
by Timbuktu7 min read

In June of 2026, one of our Latin America and Asia travel specialists, Carola Fresno, made the transformative journey to Bhutan and Nepal. From Bhutan’s sacred valleys to Nepal’s Himalayan villages, it was a trip built around slow mornings, extraordinary people, unforgettable meals and the kind of moments that refuse to fit inside a photograph.

As Carola put it, “This is the kind of journey where you’ll remember the people long before you remember the monuments and your favorite memory isn’t necessarily the famous landmark, but the laughter shared over dinner, the monk who quietly invited you into a prayer ceremony, or the smell of pine forests after an afternoon hike through the Himalayas.”

“My introduction to Bhutan, Thimphu, may be one of the world’s few capitals without traffic lights, but don’t mistake that for sleepy. The city buzzes in its own wonderfully gentle way. The Centenary Farmers’ Market is filled with farmers proudly selling impossible amounts of red chilies, homemade yak cheese, mountain honey and freshly harvested vegetables. Monks browse beside the children darting between market stalls. Everyone seems to know everyone.”

“Standing beneath the enormous Buddha Dordenma, looking across the valley, you begin to understand why Bhutan speaks so much about happiness. Not because life is perfect, but because there’s an unmistakable sense of balance. When you look at people’s faces, smiling around, you realize that happiness isn’t a concept, it’s a way of life here. We were lucky enough to experience being there with hundreds of people from around the country in a unique ceremony that only takes place once every year… Everyone chanting and praying – what a way to start our journey!”

“Then came the drive to Gangtey. Along the way, we revelled in the lush forests – over 60% of its terrain is protected and untouched. The drive went beyond a transfer as we navigated the Dochula Pass. Rows of white chortens appear against the Himalayan skyline before the road winds gently down into the vast Phobjikha Valley. Suddenly the forests open into enormous rolling meadows where farmhouses dot the landscape and the whole valley seems wrapped in silence.”

Gangtey Lodge isn’t just somewhere to sleep, it’s somewhere you’ll wish you had booked an extra night or even a week. The fireplace always seems to be lit at exactly the right moment. The views from your room make you stop unpacking halfway through because you simply have to take it in for a while. Then comes dinner at The Shed…Don’t expect anything overly formal – and that’s exactly why it’s so memorable. The atmosphere is relaxed, the ingredients are local, the wine flows, conversations linger, and somehow hours disappear while the valley outside slowly turns from green to deep blue. It’s one of those evenings you’ll find yourself talking about months later.”

“The following morning delivered one of the most moving experiences of the entire journey while hiking the Gangtey Nature Trail. It’s gentle, peaceful and breathtakingly beautiful, winding through forests and open valleys where black-necked cranes spend the winter. It’s impossible not to walk a little slower here and try to reach its highest points.”

“Later on, we participated in a Butter Lamp ceremony in a small temple, followed by a unique evening with a monk, learning the power of meditation. Then, we witnessed a prayer ceremony with the monks. Deep chanting fills the temple, butter lamps flicker and incense drifts through the air while ceremonial horns echo across the valley. Free of crowds or performance, it was an authentic moment where a centuries-old tradition felt deeply personal. Surreal and at the same time, sublime!”

Punakha somehow feels warmer in every sense of the word. Rice paddies replace alpine forests, jacaranda trees bloom beside rivers, and the magnificent Punakha Dzong appears almost like something from a painting. But once again, it’s the people who steal the show.”

“Meeting the women monks at Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery is one of those experiences that simply can’t be manufactured. They welcome you into their world with openness and warmth, offering a glimpse into daily life that very few visitors ever experience. There is something wonderfully grounding about sitting together, trying to understand what they want to share, and what you want to say, realising that genuine hospitality needs no common language.”

“The short hike to Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten rewards every step with spectacular views. After crossing a unique suspension bridge covered in fluttering prayer flags, we entered Karma’s House for a delicious homemade lunch as we chatted about her life, her crops and the textiles she dyes by hand.”

“The descent into Paro is breathtaking – not just because of the mountains but because it feels like crossing an invisible border into another way of living. By the time we reached Paro, Bhutan had already worked its quiet magic on all of us, but this only intensified.”

“It somehow raised the bar again when we hiked up to Bumdra Camp, located at 3,800 metres above sea level. I even continued hiking all the way to a ceremonial burning spot – one of the most powerful places I’ve ever experienced. The trek is less about reaching a destination and more about enjoying every step. Forests give way to open mountain ridges before your campsite appears high above the valley. Watching sunset paint the Himalayas gold before falling asleep beneath a blanket of stars is one of those rare moments that’s impossible to capture.”

“Dawn arrives gently over Bumdra Camp and, with it, comes one final walk through Bhutan’s high country. The trail winds downhill beneath whispering pines and strings of prayer flags, revealing Tiger’s Nest only at the very last moment, clinging improbably to the cliff face below. Approaching from above, long before the big chunk of day visitors arrive, feels like being let in on a secret. A fitting finale to a journey shaped by slow steps and quiet moments of reflection.”

Nepal came with a completely different energy. Kathmandu is vibrant, ancient and wonderfully alive. Sacred rituals unfold along the Bagmati River at Pashupatinath while, just across town, thousands of pilgrims circle the great Boudhanath Stupa, prayer wheels spinning rhythmically beneath colorful flags. It’s busy, fascinating and deeply spiritual all at once. And one of my favourite cities in the world, for sure!”

“Then there’s Pokhara. If Bhutan taught you to slow down, Pokhara teaches you to breathe even deeper and embrace the landscape. Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge sits quietly above the valley, where mornings begin with coffee, birdsong and the snow-covered Annapurna range glowing pink in the first light. It’s almost impossible to stop staring.”

“I didn’t go into the mountains for long hut-to-hut treks, but the hike toward Australian Camp became one of the great surprises of the trip. Passing through forests and tiny villages, tons of steep and continuous steps, you’ll be greeted by smiling children walking home from school, farmers tending terraced fields and elderly locals eager to say hello. It’s all about daily Himalayan life unfolding around you.”

“Before heading home, Kathmandu City had one final surprise waiting. Visiting The Dwarika’s Sanctuary Lodge felt like ending a great novel exactly where it should finish…With yoga lessons, Ayurvedic massages, Makos Zen Japanese dinners and sound healing sessions.”

“There was just enough time for a unique farewell: an eight-course tasting menu at Krishnarpan. Each beautifully presented course tells the story of Nepal through flavours, forgotten recipes and regional traditions. Between courses, we found ourselves talking about everything that happened over the last few weeks: learning about the different Buddhism lines, hiking through the Himalayas, laughing with the nuns and monks, all the prayers and ceremonies, being amazed once again by the architecture, history and culture, and trying to remember each sunrise and sunset along the way.”

“Long after you’ve unpacked your suitcase, those are the moments that will stay with you. Not because they were the biggest, but because they quietly became the most meaningful. And perhaps that’s exactly what Bhutan and Nepal do best.”


As seen in

Condé Nast TravelerThe Daily TelegraphTravel and Leisure