Where to go in Morocco

One of the great joys of a trip to Morocco is discovering Marrakesh. More is definitely more in the country’s most iconic city, and the blushing medina walls hum with a never-ending activity that is sultry and addictive. So, where to start? The famous Djemaa el-Fna square is as good a place as any; time a visit just as the sun is setting and the acrobats and snake charmers, musicians and dancers fizz into life and the food stalls sizzle and smoke. In the cool of the morning, begin your wanderings through the puzzle of cobbled streets, dodging the mopeds and donkeys, and gazing upon the ancient mosques and Andalusian architecture that will focus your mind on times past and the still deeply traditional life. Then, it’s off to the souks, where sheep hang from hooks, artisans mould and craftsmen weave, and a magpie’s nest of treasures glints in the sun…

The stuff of legends and ancient myths, folk tales and Aladdin-inspired childhood dreams, the Sahara is a desert and a half. Covering an area roughly the size of the United States, and falling across a staggering 20 longitude lines and 10 countries, its immense, orange-hued plains are a place of neverending solitude. The slice of Saharan sand in south-eastern Morocco is one of the most accessible parts of the desert and for many, spending a night or even a few days here is a once-in-a-lifetime goal. Experiences are quintessential yet wonderful: camel trek to forgotten villages that rise like mirages from the sand, immerse yourself in a culture that has remained unchanged for centuries, and get your thrills on a 4WD or dune buggy expedition. And remember, whether you choose to do nothing or everything, the sheer majesty of your surroundings will take your breath away at every turn...

Delve into the Arab chronicles and ancient Moroccan histories, and there is one name that appears time and time again: Fez. The epicentre of politics, culture, trade and religion, it was one of the finest cities in the Arab world, glittering with awe, intrigue, and success. Today, life remains firmly rooted in the glory of times gone by, and many of the inhabitants still live in the medina city of Fes el Bali, the most glorious of Morocco’s medinas and an assault to the senses in every way. Here, electricity is the only nod to modernity - back alleys are crammed with exquisite medersahs and pack-laden donkeys, and labyrinthine streets weave and wander past mosques, monuments and the whispy aromas of tagine. And the best way to see it? Don your best walking shoes and go for it. The more lost you become, the more you’ll discover just why Fez is so brilliant...

Once you’re totally and utterly souk-ed out, and your suitcase can’t possibly take any more leather slippers or zellige tiles, it’s time to head to the High Atlas. North Africa’s greatest mountain range, the saw-toothed peaks run diagonally across the country for almost 1000 kilometres and act as a barrier between the mild Mediterranean climate of the north and the hot and heady Sahara in the south. Unsurprisingly, the trekking is as magnificent as the scenery, and climbers and hikers flock for the chance to ascend the staggering Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in the range. If you’re visiting at a more leisurely pace, you’re still in for a stay par excellence. Wander the fertile valleys of walnut and cherry trees and gawp at the panoramic views, visit a traditional Berber village, seemingly locked in time, or hire a mule and a muleteer and go where the hooves take you...

With a welcome as warm as its climate and an atmosphere as relaxed as the djellaba’d men sipping mint tea in shady courtyards, Essaouira is a bohemian haven of culture and character. Yes, it’s got all the elements that make up an iconic Moroccan city: the medina, walled and beautiful and jam-packed with donkeys and exquisite marquetry; the spice-scented alleyways, winding to nowhere and everywhere; and the craft stalls and cafes that provide the ultimate backdrop to daily life. But then there’s the beach, a sweeping, 10-kilometre swathe of sand that ends at the bobbing blue boats of the 18th-century harbour and provides the backdrop to much of Essaouira’s charm. Spend the day watching the windsurfers take on the waves and peek at the fisherman bringing in their wares – and then eat your fill at any one of the superb restaurants overlooking the water. Bliss.

Conjuring memories of great, wartime films and romantic ideals of French colonies, Casablanca is, in fact, one of Morocco’s most modern cities. Established by the French as a key commercial port, this is a place where the young and ambitious come to make it big, international restaurants provide a welcome break from tagines, and art deco architecture provides an enticing backdrop to a trendy café culture. And although it’s perhaps not as evocative as Fez or Marrakesh, the city still ticks plenty of boxes on a Moroccan hot list: the iconic Moorish buildings are handsome - and best admired in the downtown area – and for a true flavour of the city, take a stroll by the Central Market and the Pasha of Casablanca’s reception hall. Dominating the skyline, Hassan II Mosque is hard to miss – and when dusk hits, where better to end up than Rick’s Café for a gin cocktail?

About 30 kilometres south of the medinas and madness of Marrakesh, past the dusty farmlands and probably an odd shepherd or two, you’ll reach a landscape that is so untouched and so far from what you’ve left behind, you’ll wonder if it might be the moon. This is the Agafay Desert, a rocky, lunar terrain that stretches as far as the eye can see, until you catch sight of the snowy Atlas Mountains in the distance. So far, so dreamy – but what to do in this rocky wasteland? Well, you won’t be disappointed! A playground for weekending, Marrakshi urbanites, the blockbuster roster of activities includes camel trekking, horse-riding, dune-buggying, and even swimming and canoeing in the hidden oasis of Lalla Takerkoust.

Northern Morocco is charm personified and nowhere more so than in Chefchaouen. Blue-washed and peaceful, the town is perched on a hilltop deep in the Rif Mountains, only a few hours by road from Fez and Tangier but lightyears away from the hustle and bustle. Case in point is the medina, a glorious blend of Moroccan and Andalusian influences that is one of the smallest (and loveliest) in the country. Follow the cobbled lanes, past the women adorned in their red-and-white striped foutas, to Uta el-Hammam Square for a mandatory mint tea in the shade, and then pause for a visit to the restored Kasbah with its exhibits of pottery and photographs. And when the heat gets too much to handle, head to the cool of the mountains, and explore the trails and trees of the Rif.

If you know your deserts, you’ll know that Erg Chigaga and Erg Chebbi are the two main ports of call for anyone visiting the Sahara Desert. Mystical, magical and achingly beautiful, this is where you’ll come to marvel at the magnitude of the golden sand, with dunes soaring a staggering 350 metres into the sky, and be enchanted by the spiky shadows of camels traversing the valley floors. The King of the dunes, the Erg Chebbi network is around 3 miles long and 31 miles wide, and possibly the most sought-after, whilst the Erg Chigaga is much more remote, with a good deal of bumps and rocks to contend with on the journey. Both, however, offer camel trekking and dune climbing, never-ending, photogenic landscapes and exhilarating 4WD safaris, and glorious sunrises and sunsets that bring with them a chance to discover the secrets of this unique desert.

Often referred to as the gateway to the Sahara, the Skoura area and surrounding expanse of sand is the desert of Hollywood movies – and quite literally so, as the Berber city of Ouarzazate has indeed provided the set of many a film over the years, including the iconic Lawrence of Arabia! If a desert can be pretty, then this is it: palm groves and red earth are littered across sand more golden than the sun, rose gardens and fertile date palm plantations are hidden in the most surprising of corners, and fortified cities (the most famous is the stunning Aït Ben Haddou) rise out of the ground, concealing secrets and rich histories. If you’re staying in the area, you’re more than likely to visit Skoura itself, an extraordinary oasis that flourishes with life, the Tadra Gorge for trekking amid the enormous rock walls, and the Valley of Roses, a place so remote it can only be reached by mule.

A traditional desert outpost that takes its name from the ever-watchful mountain in the distance, Zagora may be isolated but its charm and character bely the pastoral setting. Made famous by the iconic “Timbuktu: 52 Days” sign in reference to the nomads who began their trans-Saharan camel journeys from the crossroads, it was these exotic caravans that brought – and left – a sense of cosmopolitan allure. Today, it’s a lively trading post and meeting spot, and a great base for those exploring this stretch of the Sahara. Visit during the twice-weekly market, when olives, dates and carpets are piled high amid the dusty streets and traders flock from far and wide, for an unhindered peek into the Berber way of life. Then, head high into the mountains to admire the pretty palm groves and ancient kasbahs scattered between the undulating dunes.

An hour on the ferry from Spain, at the meeting point between two continents, Tangier couldn’t be less European if it tried. In fact, the coastal city doesn’t really fit into any box thanks in part to its colourful history, squabbled over by powerful European nations, and artful eccentricities that attracted everyone from Matisse to Mick Jagger. Today, elements of the heady decades remain but serve merely as a reminder as investment floods in and sophisticated boutiques and hotels outnumber dilapidated buildings. At the centre of it all is the Grand Socco, or Grand Square, the gateway between the old and new city, and the perfect starting point for a wander. Stroll past bookshops and havens of antiques to the old Art Deco cinema, the Kasbah museum, and the shady trees of the Mendoubia Gardens, before ending at the Petit Socco. Then, scoot down to the iconic Al Hafa Café for the sweetest mint tea overlooking the sapphire seas.

Ancient royal grandeur graces this oft-overlooked capital. The Kasbah des Oudaias charms with white walls and blue trim—a Moroccan nod to Mediterranean aesthetics. Chaotic souks and old medina quarters deliver the sensory rush you'd expect, while leafy boulevards provide unexpected calm. The unfinished 12th-century Hassan Tower stands as a grand architectural curiosity, with the Atlantic coast offering a breezy escape from city life—sometimes gentle, sometimes dramatic, always captivating.