Where to go in Sri Lanka

If a good dose of history and the promise of a temple or two or three makes your heart race, then Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle was made for you. Home to no less than five of the country’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, all no more than 4-hours’ drive apart, the Cultural Triangle is a cornucopia of history, culture and spirituality. In geographical terms, Kandy forms the southern point of the triangle, whilst tongue-twisting Anuradhapura is the northern point and Polonnaruwa, the eastern. The Dambulla rock cave temple complex and star-of-the-show Sirigiya sit in the central part, close to Minneryia National Park. All over, the landscape is almost otherworldly and dense jungle, teeming with herbs and meditation caves, stretches as far as the eye can see, speckled with the jaw-droppingly magnificent treasures from Sri Lanka’s past. Magical.

Whether you know it as Hill Country or Tea Country, the central-southern region of Sri Lanka is a viridian utopia of rolling tea terraces and plantations, steeped mountains and jagged peaks. An ideal retreat from the hazy humidity, the air up here is crisp and clean and it certainly tickled the tastes of the British who couldn’t get enough of the cooler climes. Most of your days will be spent rolling from one plantation to the next, sipping cups of the world’s finest Ceylon and nibbling on sandwiches and jam-filled scones, but even if you don’t love tea, there’s plenty to do. Island-hop across the unreservedly picturesque Castlereagh Reservoir, amble along pretty trails to waterfalls and cloud-clad forests, or, if the need for something more daring arises, wake with the sun to summit the Sri Lankan Matterhorn, Adam’s Peak, an ancient pilgrimage site with staggering views.

With its long, sunshine-filled days and scene-stealing beaches, Sri Lanka’s south coast is the island’s original beach destination. The crumbling grandeur of Galle has drawn many a traveller over the years and sleepy beach towns Tangalle, Weligama and Bentota have long appeared on any discerning beach-lover’s map. But if more than a handful of restaurants and a smoothie shack or two sounds busy, the south coast has plenty more up its sleeve in the off-the-grid stakes. We’re talking horseshoe bays with caramel sands and only bobbing fishing boats for company; hidden coves where surfing and swimming in aquamarine waters is a way of life; and quirky, design hotels made for R&R under ubiquitous fronds. And then there’s the food. Traditional Sri Lankan cooking is definitely having a moment and down here in the Deep South, there’s everything from iconic hoppers to fragrant coconut curries and veggie-packed thalis to get your teeth into (literally). The cherry on top of an utterly glorious beach break.

Deep in the heart of the island and the most southerly point of the Cultural Triangle, sweet-sounding Kandy certainly lives up to its name. Perched in an enviable lake-side location, backed by drapes of emerald mountains and rolling hills and whispered over by a delicate Hill Country breeze, it’s famously known as one of the most picturesque cities in the country – and we won’t be arguing with that. Built in 1357 CE, it was the capital of Sri Lanka from 1592 until the British took over in the 19thcentury and today, it’s vibrant, lively, bursting with history and liberally scattered with shrines and beautiful Kandyian architecture. None, however, are more gasp-worthy than the golden-roofed, elephant-guarded Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the most significant shrine in the country and home to Buddha’s tooth said to have been collected from his funeral pyre in India in 483 BC.

Colombo city, it’s loud, bustling, chaotic and colourful. But really, it deserves more than a glance or a cursory overnight here and there. It’s a city of glittering contrasts and its various incarnations over the years, from Portuguese, Dutch and British rule to 20th century independence, combined with a smorgasbord of modern cultures and a good sprinkling of expats make it cosmopolitan and really quite cool. The Fort is home to some beautiful architecture including the Old Dutch Hospital and the National Museum, whilst neighbouring Pettah is all about cacophonous, coconut-scented markets and kamikaze tuktuks. Escape the chaos and breathe in the crisp air of one of the city’s pretty green spaces (Galle Face Green and Viharamahadevi Park are particular favourites), before heading back into the thronging streets to the latest hipster restaurant or ever-more-stylish gallery. It’s all here in Colombo.

As spectacular, natural landmarks go, the towering rock formation of Sigiriya definitely scores highly. Making it even more mind-boggling is the fortress perched at the apex, the brain-child of King Kasyapa I who ordered construction in the 5th century. It is said that he went on to live in it with his harem of 500 for 20 years, but that’s a story for another day… The entire structure reaches over 200 metres into the sky, towering over the tangled jungle landscapes below, and will elicit a good few gasps from several kilometres away. Views from the top are utterly breath-taking and can be reached by ascending 1,202 delicate steps, past beautiful wall paintings. Start your climb at dawn for the dreamiest of views, or if you don’t fancy the head-rush, take to the skies in a hot-air balloon and appreciate its wonder from the clouds.

Sri Lanka’s south coast might be all surf, sea and sunshine but step away from the sand and into Galle’s higgledy-piggledy streets for something a tad different. The fortified town is one of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites and in its heart is a jaw-dropping fortress crammed with centuries of colonial influence from Portuguese to Dutch to English. It might be a cliché, but watching the sun rise or set over the thick castle walls will be a highlight of any trip. Beyond the ramparts, you’ll find an eclectic mix of art galleries, cafes and chic hotels all watched over by a jumble of entirely elegant architecture. Get into the nooks and crannies on a walking tour – the best ones will take you past local restaurants serving tuna salads and tasty hoppers, through the flea market to pick up antiques and decorative bunting, and ending at the sweeping seaside for a pineapple shake.

For a generous slice of Sri Lanka’s safari action, pop Yala on your travel list. Undoubtedly the country’s most well-known national park, it may already be on your radar, but the hype is absolutely worth it. Sloth bears, water buffalo and elephants roam wild through a diverse terrain of jungles, grasslands, lakes, plains and even a caramel-coloured beach or two, but the biggest drawcard is the leopard. Not only does the park have the largest population of the spotted cats in the world (60 in 380 square miles at the last count), they are also King of the food chain and can be spotted slinking around their natural habitat with relative ease. Any month of the year should yield sightings, but your best chance is probably from January to July, which handily coincides with the palu tree fruit season in late June and early July and the sloth bear’s nirvana.

Located a mere 10 kilometres from Bandaranaike Airport, in Colombo, Negombo is the ultimate fly-and-flop beach destination with no fuss whatsoever. Yes, it’s incredibly close to the airport and the main thoroughfare might look a tad touristy, but it’s not all bright lights and ice-cream licking travellers. In the town itself, an impressive network of Dutch canals wind past palm trees and pastel-coloured Catholic churches, and the picturesque lagoon is an ideal spot for windsurfing, boat riding and cocktail drinking. A tuk-tuk up to Angurukaramulla, a striking temple with a six-metre high Buddha at its centre, will give you a real taste of Sri Lanka, as will the lip-smacking array of hip restaurants serving everything from fried crab to coconut-fuelled curries. And then there’s the beach. Sweeping north of the town for several miles in a golden, glorious arc, it might not be as pristine as others on the island, but the balmy waters and buttery sands suit us just fine.

We know, we know, we shouldn’t have favourites, but once you’ve clapped eyes on enchanting Ella, we think you’ll agree with us. At 1000-metres above sea level, surrounded by quivering peaks and mist-wrapped landscapes carpeted with tea, the scenery around this little mountain village is beautiful. Add the iconic Nine Arch Bridge and the trundling toy train (make sure you hop in a carriage for at least part of your journey down) and the stupendous views through the Ella Gap, all the way to the lighthouses of the southern coast, and we’d go as far to say it’s some of the island’s best. So, what to do when you’re not ogling the scenery? Ella is famous for its walking trails and routes range from gentle strolls to temples and tea plantations, to hardy hikes up Ella’s Peak and to some of the region’s most astonishing waterfalls.

Anuradhapura was the ancient monastic capital of Ceylon from the 5th to the 10th century and a place of glory, promise and majesty. Today, it’s still the capital of the region and although not quite as grand as it may once have been, the crumbling temples, monasteries, and forts are still magnificent. Many of the buildings are, in fact, in use today as places of worship and the entire area has a vibrancy to it, magnified by the ever-present hum of Buddhist ceremonies. Sights to take note of include the enormous, brick-built dagobas, ancient symbols of meditation and the tallest in the world, and the old water tanks, a remnant of one of the most ambitious irrigation systems in the world. And probably the most beautiful is the sprawling Bodhi tree, believed to be an offshoot of the very tree under which Buddha became enlightened 2,300 years ago, and revered the world over.

There’s more than a subtle dose of the genteel about Sri Lanka’s Hill Country, but Hatton really does take the (cream-filled) biscuit. It’s the first stop on the train journey from Kandy and arrivals at the platform are greeted simultaneously by honking goats and chickens and the station manager, resplendent in cap and gold frills. Drive out of the town centre and you’ll pass colourful Hindu temples and row after row of lush tea plantations. The world’s favourite hot drink is really the focus of a stay here and you’ll have the pick of the factories to learn everything there is to know about the leaf-to-cup process. Hatton is also the closest point from which to hike Adam’s Peak, a 2,243-metre-high conical mountain with a sacred footprint rock formation thought to belong to Buddha.

On the southern section of the Sri Lankan mango, the Weligama coast is another highlight of any beach-comber’s handbook, although in this case there’s another reason to visit: whales. The coastline (and in particular the fishing town of Mirissa) is one of the best places in the world to spot both blue and sperm whales as well as frolicking dolphins, and if the denizens of the deep top your wishlist, time your visit from December to April. If not, there’s still plenty to captivate, from the pretty bays and coconut groves to the gentle ocean swell that will have you reaching for a surfboard in the flash of a flipper. Other water-based activities include sailing, kayaking, surfing, diving and snorkelling, and then there’s the iconic stilt fisherman and their colourful fishing boats, one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic sights and a beautiful one at that.

It is said that the further east you head from Galle, the more beautiful, blissed-out and rustic the beaches become. Tangalle is about as far east as you can get and the silky sands that line this little stretch of coastline and frame its pretty villages certainly are supreme. Coast-side, you’ve got your pick of tranquil coves and coconut-lined bays and the gentle swells couldn’t be better for a morning swim or an afternoon surf. The Deep South has upped its style game in recent years and the crop of cool-as-a-cucumber hotels and villas (spot the Geoffrey Bawa) will appeal to loved-up ‘mooners, young families and yoga bunnies. If you tire of lounging (you never know, it might happen), head inland to the patchwork rice paddies for hidden villages, Buddha statues and the increasingly well-known Mulgirigala rock temples, or venture further afield for a day trip into one of the island’s wildlife-strewn national parks.

A hop, skip and a jump from Galle, one of Sri Lanka’s finest cities, lies Lake Koggala, one of its finest lakes. The freshwater lagoon and its village namesake are peaceful, inviting and totally unhurried; places where Technicolour butterflies flitter in the sky and digital detoxes don’t sound like something to be achieved – they just are. The lake itself is the main attraction and its glassy waters are punctuated with small, temple-sprinkled islands that can be explored by boat. A highlight is always a visit to one of the cinnamon farms where you can watch farmers packaging the sweet-smelling spice into long quills before being painstakingly dried into the papery bark recognised the world over. Then there’s the jungle-clad shoreline, a paradise for wildlife including larger-than-life lizards and electric kingfishers, and a couple of lowland tea plantations nearby that complete the Sri Lankan experience.

In an island of idyllic, palm-fringed beaches, it's the Bentota area, between Colombo and Galle on the south-west coast, that’s home to just about the very best. Bentota town itself is pretty enough (and a great place to shop, slurp smoothies and people-watch), but it’s a few steps further to the south where the magic really happens. First up are beaches ripe for waterskiing, windsurfing and even horse-riding, alongside exquisite Geoffrey Bawa-designed hotels. Then, head towards sleepy Balapitiya and discover a jungled landscape strewn with wetlands and mangrove forests ripe for boating, as well as inland Buddhist temples that are well worth an exploration. This southern section is also home to world-famous turtle hatcheries where you can play your part in conservation and release baby turtles into the wild. Struggling to choose a spot? Rest assured that wherever you end up, the south coast is a lesson in in forget-about-everything relaxation...

Around 30 miles south of Nuwara Eliya is the Tamil town of Haputale. Clinging to a steep ridge with extraordinary views over the mountains, sometimes mist-laden, sometimes not, it’s the kind of place where time stands still and nature reigns supreme. One draw of the sparkling air will revive even the most travel weary, as will the crop of chic hotels that have sprung up in recent years. Close-by is Horton Plains National Park, a Narnia-esque grassy highland of ancient trees and swirling fog that is magical, mystical and a delight to explore. It’s the only park in Sri Lanka that allows hiking and the circular trail will take you on a wander through cloud forests home to monkeys, deer, mongoose and giant squirrels. Then, you’ll arrive at World’s End, a stunning escarpment that plunges 1000 metres into the seemingly infinite valley below – and that’s certainly worth the 8-mile round hike.

The entire Hill Country scores pretty highly in the photogenic stakes, but stealing the top rank is probably the ‘capital’ Nuwara Eliya. Translated as ‘city on the plain’, the hill station was once the favourite spot for imperial Brits to holiday (perhaps it was that familiar climate?!) and today, there’s still a strange sense of home around. On a wander, you’ll spot crimson letterboxes and croquet lawns next to estates of sari-clad tea pickers, and many of the mansions and mock-Tudor houses have been turned into fabulous boutique hotels, ideal for a G&T or three. Pottering and tea-drinking aside, Victoria Park offers excellent sightings of numerous, multi-coloured birds and the crystal waters of the dramatic Aberdeen Falls are worth a visit too. And how about rounding things off with a different type of ‘tee for two’ and a spot of golf on one of Asia’s oldest courses?

Wilpattu National Park is located in the dry lowlands of north-west Sri Lanka, which may seem strange when we tell you that the park’s defining characteristic is its natural water features. The land is actually an intricate matrix of villus, or lakes, that are strung across the wild terrain and surrounded by wide plains – a stark change from the jungled forests of other areas. Aside from being incredibly striking, it’s these villus that attract the park’s vast and varied cast of animals, from elephants and crocs, sloths and the rare barking deer to elegant white egrets and even spoonbills. The leopard population is also healthy, and whilst it might not be Yala-worthy just yet, there’s a good chance you’ll spot a cat, especially as there are no strict game drive times or even trails to adhere to.

There’s a muttering on the Sri Lankan safari circuit and it’s in the name of Gal Oya National Park. Established in the 1950s to protect the area around the stunning Senanayake Samudraya Reservoir, it’s well off the tourist-trodden trail and the quietest of all the parks by a safari mile. And it’s this reservoir that makes the park truly special. Dotted with a menagerie of small islands, each rich in animal and plant life, the best way to travel is by boat and as you cruise, cup of Ceylon in hand, keep your eyes peeled for the elephant herds that swim between the landforms. Also on the cards is a chance to spend time with the Veddha tribe, Sri Lanka’s original hunter-gatherers. There are only around 100 of them left and to walk the plains, seeking out medicinal plants and learning about their traditional way of life, is fascinating.

Sri Lanka’s northeast coast is a generous swathe of creamy beaches and laidback fishing villages that, for many years, was firmly off the travel radar due to the war. Now, the coastline is back in action and ready to reveal its full potential as a tropical beach heaven. The spot leading the revival is Trincomalee, a vibrant town spread over a cluster of rocky promontories, tree-lined beaches extending north and south in a postcard-perfect picture of golden sands and waving palms. The deep blue waters up here offer excellent surfing, diving and fishing, and, if you’re visiting in March, April, August or September, fabulous whale-watching opportunities – hop on a boat from Trinco’s harbour for the best opportunity to spot them. On land, visit gilded Hindu temples (Koneswaram, perched on Swami Rock above Trinco, is magnificent) and wander or bike through the flora-clad interior.

With years of fighting firmly in the past and a revival of tiny little planes flitting in from the international airport, Sri Lanka’s east coast is back in the holiday game. Far, far away from the swanky southwest, both literally and figuratively, it is (for the moment) incredibly quiet and away from the madding crowds. Names to mention along the sweeping bay include Pasikudah, a small town smack bang in the centre of the coastline, with a good name for diving and water sports in the bathtub-warm waters. A mere 2 kilometres away is Kalkudah, serious Robinson Crusoe territory where the beaches are wild, golden and untamed and the few hotels are organic and laidback. Then, a little further south, you’ll stumble across Batticaloa, a Tamil town of colourful temples, lagoons and a smattering of colonial sights that is definitely worth a potter.

When you land in Colombo, it’s almost guaranteed that you’ll make a beeline for the south, or don your cultural hat for a trip inland - but what happens the other way? This is the northwest coast, a captivating stretch of Sri Lanka that has emerged from civil unrest as wildly wonderful as ever. The main draw of the area, however, is the inland network of ancient irrigation lakes built almost 2,000 years ago by ancient Anuradhapura civilisation for water storage. Today, the watery haven is adored by hornbills, kingfishers and storks and swimming, kayaking and wildlife-watching is the name of the game.