The name Chettinad actually refers to a collection of villages, around 76 in total, located in the dusty southern reaches of Tamil Nadu. The area is the homeland of the Chettiars, a banking community who, in the time of the Chola dynasty, made a fortune in trading gems. Today, the region is awash with the palatial houses that sprang up from their years of international travel – a teak door from Burma here, some Italian marble there – and a wander through the villages, particularly Karaikudi, is sure to illicit a few gasps. After a night in one such magnificent mansion, hit the markets; with rows and rows of stalls dedicated to textiles, silver, furniture, antiques, and even kitchenware, there are more shopping opportunities than you can shake a suitcase at. And of course, you can’t leave without trying a peppery Chettinad curry…