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Curling into the sea on a sickle-shaped promontory (legend has it that Demeter dropped her sickle here while searching for her daughter Persephone), Trapani is right on Sicily's far western tip, with a distinctly North African streak running through its cooking. Wander the old town's pedestrianised streets and Baroque piazzas, then settle in for a plate of fish couscous, a nod to the city's Tunisian influences, or busiate pasta with the local almond-and-tomato pesto. Just south of town, old windmills rise above the salt pans that fuelled the local economy for centuries, and they are at their prettiest at sunset. Trapani also makes a superb base for day trips: ride the cable car up to Erice, a medieval hilltop village 751 metres above the sea, or hop on a ferry to the Egadi Islands: Favignana is the biggest and busiest, with its old tuna works and turquoise Cala Azzurra; Levanzo is car-free and barely populated; and Marettimo is further out and wilder, all sea caves and goat tracks and almost no traffic whatsoever.
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Hopping between three islands that feel improbably far from anywhere despite being just a short hop from Trapani's harbour. Marettimo alone, all cliffs and quiet, could happily eat up an entire week.
Skip Favignana in August and catch Levanzo instead: no cars, a handful of houses, and prehistoric paintings in the Grotta del Genovese that predate the pyramids by millennia.
Ferries to Marettimo get very booked up in summer, so buy tickets a day ahead. Erice's cable car also closes in high wind, so have a backup plan for getting up (or down).
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Wet Season — a good time to visit
Wet Season — a good time to visit
Dry Season — a good time to visit
Dry Season — one of the best times to visit
Dry Season — one of the best times to visit
Dry Season — one of the best times to visit
Dry Season — a good time to visit
Dry Season — a quieter time to visit
Dry Season — one of the best times to visit
Dry Season — one of the best times to visit
Wet Season — a quieter time to visit
Wet Season — a good time to visit
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