Smack-bang on the equator, Ecuador may be small but its landscapes, history and deeply-embedded cultures are larger than life. From wildlife-laden rainforests and islands, to volcanoes that touch the heavens and centuries of history, there’s certainly no shortage of bucket list moments. The accommodation doesn’t disappoint either with everything from converted mansions and haciendas built on volcanic slopes, to stylish, eco-centred lodges in the wildest of spaces. These are our picks for the best lodges in Ecuador.
ILLA Experience Hotel
Quito
Built in Quito’s bohemian San Marcos and converted from a 17th-century home, ILLA fits right in to the historic city. It welcomes guests with the warmth of an old family friend, while the rooms are plush, lovely and all complete with bold oil paintings, heated floors, and views that range from the exuberant Junin Street to the El Panecillo hill and its famous winged guardian. In ILLA’s central atrium, settle into an armchair by the lamplit pool and enjoy a relaxing respite from the city, then book a table at INES restaurant for a 13-course culinary journey. And if you really enjoy that, why not join a cooking class in Old Town and learn some of the tricks of the trade? Whilst out and about, let your feet lead you from plazas and white-washed churches (there are over 200 in Quito) to museums filled with pre-Columbian art and archaeological pieces. There will be a soothing foot massage waiting when you return to ILLA and, of course, Pisco sours on the rooftop terrace.
Hacienda El Porvenir
Cotopaxi
An alpine dream built on the slopes of the Rumiñahui Volcano, Hacienda El Porvenir sits at 3,600 metres above sea level and has the views to prove it. World’s away from anyone and anything, the hacienda’s vermillion walls, bright blue window panes and thatched roofs are pretty as a picture – especially with snow-capped peaks in the back garden. The grounds are actually a working farm and much of the produce is used to whip up delicious dishes like volcanic-rock beef and salmon encrusted with roasted pumpkin seeds. The Hacienda’s interiors are homely – think mustard throws, roaring fires and fresh roses – while the APU Mountain Spa boasts a Jacuzzi, two hot tubs and a temazcal (sauna) heated by volcanic rocks doused in herbal water. If you’re feeling adventurous, go glamping in one of the machais, which are built to mimic a traditional Andean hut. Speaking of adventure, we highly recommend donning your trekking boots and exploring the sprawling Cotopaxi National Park with a local chagra (Ecuadorian cowboy) and hear their legends of old.
Mashpi Lodge
Cloud Forest
The Choco-Andean Cloud Forest is one of the most biodiverse on Earth and amidst this sea of green, Mashpi Lodge occupies the only ‘flat’ area in 3,200-acres. The lodge is eco-conscious in every way: not a tree was removed during construction, their laboratory works tirelessly on conservation and research projects (an array of new frog and orchid species have recently been discovered), and the Life Centre is a breeding ground for dozens of butterflies. During your stay, enjoy breakfast on the deck amid the birdlife, and enjoy expertly-crafted dinners using ingredients from the forest – as well as signature spicy guava margaritas at the Explorer’s Bar. Then, head out and explore. There are over two dozen hiking trails, where toucans and hummingbirds flutter, and spectacled bears and ocelots hide. At canopy-level, cycle across the gorge on a tandem Sky Bike or ride the mile-long gondola, then ascend Mashpi’s 8-storey observation tower for the best views. As for a little pampering, it has to be the spa, where volcanic stone massages and chocolate oil treatments await…
Finch Bay Hotel
Isla Santa Cruz
Aah, the ‘Enchanted Isles’, where unique species live on the shores of every island and the Galapagos Marine Reserve protects its underwater labyrinths. The second largest in the archipelago, Isla Santa Cruz is a gem and on its south coast, you’ll find Finch Bay Hotel. The sole beachfront property along this pristine stretch of sand, Finch Bay was built to be inconspicuous, and inside, the interiors let the views take every bit of the spotlight. Outside, Finch’s private yacht, the Sea Lion, offers ample opportunities to explore: stop at the Galapagos’ tiniest islands, snorkel in crystal-clear waters and keep a lookout for the ‘Galapagos 15’ including penguins that leap from the cliffs, swimming iguana and the curious booby. Back on land, visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, hike with giant tortoises in the highlands and scramble through ancient lava tunnels. Whatever you choose, Finch Bay most certainly knows how to craft an impeccable nature experience.
Mansión Alcàzar
Cuenca
Where the Andes flatten and become Ecuador’s southern sierra, you’ll find the historic, cobblestoned city of Cuenca. Right in the heart of it, the Mansión Alcàzar once belonged to the president’s son and its style has remained refined and ornate, just as it once was. In the halls, crystal chandeliers and antique furnishings sit atop plush carpets and the elegance continues into the rooms; the Cielo Suite takes the crown as the most beautiful and its frescoed ceiling is a masterpiece. Alcàzar is one of the few houses in the city centre that has chosen to preserve its original interior gardens and the green space brims with fresh flowers and a burbling fountain. Outside, there are more picturesque gardens and a pergola to enjoy a book, afternoon tea or private dinner. When you’re not perusing Cuenca’s handicraft and rose markets or admiring the baby-blue domes of the Cathedral Nuevo, make your way to the spa for an Ayurvedic treatment, cocoa body wrap or the heavenly ‘Bath of the Inca’.
Sacha Lodge
The Ecuadorian Amazon
Barely visible amongst the abundant greenery within a 5,000-acre ecological reserve in the Amazon, Sacha Lodge is stylish, eco-friendly and totally epic. The spacious rooms are almost entirely built from sustainable wood and tucked amid tangles of vines, monkeys chattering below and giant sloths slouching nearby. Sacha also boasts the only lake pool in the Ecuadorian Amazon, allowing for peaceful dips in Pilchicoha Lake, just out of reach of diving giant otters and caiman who peek at you from the water. Breakfast and lunch are served in the floating Balsa – keep your eyes peeled for swooping birdlife as over 600 species have been spotted around the lodge – and enjoy dinner in the open-sided terrace. Adventure has no limits here either, and canoe rides (look out for pink dolphin), hikes through the forest, visits to the eye-catching Yasuni clay lick and strolls along the 120-foot-high canopy bridge for stunning views of the forest are just some of the daily activities on offer.
Hacienda Abraspungo
Avenue of the Volcanoes
At the foot of Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest mountain, the Hacienda Abraspungo is a haven surrounded by lush, green gardens and, just beyond, the thrills of the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Inspired by the manors and farmhouses of the Ecuadorian Highlands, the hacienda’s adobe walls and decor create an authentic atmosphere whilst the traditions continue in the kitchen, where local ingredients are harvested using age-old techniques and prepared and plated with flair. Beside a roaring fire or out on the terrace, enjoy beef tenderloin in blackberry sauce and mouth-watering salmon tartar. With hand-stitched tapestries, autumnal textiles and a warming Swedish stove, each room is named after a mountain in Ecuador, inspiring daily adventures into the Avenue of Volcanoes. The verdant, 300 kilometre-long valley is punctuated by over 70 volcanoes that tower over a landscape made for epic hikes. For the real thrill-seekers, summit to the peak or cycle down the face of Chimborazo, or take a train ride along the Devil’s Nose where you’ll descend 1,000 metres in just 12 km.
Hotel del Parque
Guayaquil
Once a prominent feature in Guayaquil’s city centre, Hotel del Parque was moved brick by brick to its current home, the scenic botanical gardens of the Parque Historico. A stroll through the grounds reveals the restored Gothic chapel and historic bell tower, now boasting its very own massage room and 360-degree views. In the morning, wake to the calls of spider monkeys and parrots from the nearby wildlife sanctuary (as a guest, you’ll have have exclusive access), before meandering along the Malecon 2000 or down the coast to find a golden beach to laze upon. Inside the hotel, designer Julio Vinueza has kept the grand air and vintage pieces of the past whilst also adding a splash of modernity and minimalist design. There are plenty of quiet spaces to curl up with a book for hours on end… Sitting along the babbling Daule River, their restaurant is one of the best in the city and, for something extra special, reserve a table on the dock or in a secluded corner of the park.
Hacienda Zuleta
Otavalo
A bright-as-a-button town in the Andean Highlands, Otavalo is surrounded by landscapes that evoke adventure. It’s also home to one of the largest indigenous markets in the Americas and on a visit, you’ll be more than tempted to fill your suitcase with beautiful handmade items! Accommodation-wise, settle into the 17th-century Hacienda Zuleta, which once belonged to Ecuador’s former president, Galo Plaza. The historic building takes pride of place on a 2,000-hectare working farm and comes with its own cheese factory, the spoils of which you can enjoy during cosy evenings in front of the fire. The house is imbued with history, its rooms full of antiques, grand portraits and vases of roses, while one of Plaza’s children or grandchildren will often be around to share their stories with you. On arrival, you’ll be introduced to your personal host who will see to everything from hot water bottles at bedtime to cooking lessons and excursions on foot, bicycle or horseback, all with the formidable Imbabura Volcano as your backdrop.
Galapagos Seaman Journey
Isla Santa Cruz
If you long to see as much of the surreal Galapagos Islands as you can, a cruise onboard the Seaman could be the answer. Formed after a collision of volcanoes around 60 million years ago, the Galapagos’ 13 main islands are packed with wildlife found nowhere else on Earth – and a journey on the Seaman means you don’t have to pick between them. Instead you’ll spend your days cruising the pristine waters, stopping off at regular intervals to hike through lava tunnels and search for the ‘Galapagos 15’, the famed species that include jovial sea lions, giant tortoises and the only penguins found above the equator. The Seaman’s shallow draft also allows navigation to the most tucked-away bays and getting as close as possible to the shoreline of the smallest islands. On board, the boat’s interiors are stylish and more than comfortable but it’s the alfresco spaces that really steal the show: lay out on nets at the bow and spy dolphins swimming below, and on the Upper Deck, enjoy a little sunshine as you soak up the scenery. If you really can’t decide what you want to do most, book a two-week itinerary to see it all – and then some.
